The Kitchenware Book

Kitchenware ranges from the collectible spurdle (a long, flat wooden tool for stirring) to the merely functional modern bread machine. But just about every gizmo and gewgaw makes an appearance in this book by Ettlinger ( The Complete Illustrated Guide to Everything Sold in Hardware Stores ). With its 700 entries and 600-plus illustrations, The Kitchenware Book is clearly intended to serve as a reference. As the introduction proclaims, ``Cooking meals is a well-defined process, and this book is organized to follow that process logically.'' Each gadget is assigned to one of four major sections: preparation, cooking, beverage/garnish/serving or kitchen accessories. This seems simple enough--but the textual organization is not so very logical. Woe to the reader who wants to identify the gadgets needed to make pasta at home. A wooden pasta drying rack is categorized as a ``stove-top cooking accessory,'' while a pasta machine is listed under the ``mashing and pressing utensils.'' Moreover, the table of contents offers few clues or cross-references to aid in finding items. And so, like a mysterious fork, the book can be frustrating to use, despite its obvious assets. (Oct.)