A Taste of Heritage: The New African-American Cuisine

Building on what they call a renaissance in their culinary inheritance, chef Randall and Tipton-Martin, food editor at the Cleveland Plain Dealer, track its evolution through 300 recipes both simple and complex developed over three decades by Randall and 12 contributing chefs, including Edna Lewis and Leah Chase. Appetizers are as basic as Baked Oysters Wrapped in Country Bacon and as reinterpretive of traditional ingredients as Grilled Quail Stuffed with Collard Greens with Creamy Grits or Sauteed Foie Gras, Crisp Mustard Greens, Watercress and Caramelized Red Onion with Country Smoked Bacon Dressing. The rudimentary groundnut stew dating back to African life is refined in Cream of Boiled Peanut Soup. Faithful to another tradition, much of the food is fried here, and the fat content in many recipes is generous indeed. Pan-Fried Chicken Smothered in Sage Gravy serving six to eight calls for a half-cup of peanut oil in which to brown the chicken and then to make the gravy. The ingenuity of cooks making do with ingredients disdained by others is celebrated in Neckbone Fricassee with Cuban Black Beans and Rice and elevated with Sauteed Boneless Pig's Feet with Champagne Vinaigrette. In further contrast, Stuffed Sirloin of Beef with Wild Mushroom Sauce embodies thoroughly modern fare. Honoring a legacy and its elaborations simultaneously, Randall and Tipton-Martin deliver a lively and valuable cultural portrait. (Feb.) FYI: This cookbook is being released during Black History Month.