cover image It Ain’t Sauce, It’s Gravy: Macaroni, Homestyle Cheesesteaks, the Best Meatballs in the World, and How Food Saved My Life

It Ain’t Sauce, It’s Gravy: Macaroni, Homestyle Cheesesteaks, the Best Meatballs in the World, and How Food Saved My Life

Steve Martorano. Knopf, $27.95 (192p) ISBN 978-0-385-34989-5

Martorano was born into a family with mob ties in South Philadelphia, and the glamor of crime and easy money exerted a strong pull on him until he started his own sandwich business, which developed into a chain of successful restaurants. Martorano shares that dramatic story arc, along with the recipes that have made his restaurants so successful, in this engaging and mouthwatering collection of Italian classics. From the Italian hoagie that got him started to upscale fare like the elegant prosciutto-wrapped pappardelle with cream and truffle oil now served in his restaurants—not to mention the meatballs that Gourmet magazine called the best in the world—Martorano eagerly and generously shares his tips and secrets. Readers with a soft spot for Italian comfort food will find a lot to like: a grilled hot and sweet sausage summer salad; duck Bolognese; veal piccata; and chicken on the bone, a rustic dish featuring roasted chicken, sausages, mushrooms, and tomatoes, all beg for a turn. A thoughtful compilation of the familiar and the imaginative, paired with a compelling narrative, makes for an engaging and informative addition to the Italian cookbook canon. (Nov.)