cover image The L.L. Bean Book of New New England Cookery

The L.L. Bean Book of New New England Cookery

Judith Jones. Random House (NY), $30 (669pp) ISBN 978-0-394-54456-4

Observing that this is not a nostalgic collection but ""New England cooking for our times,'' the authors offer more than 800 varied, appealing recipes. They move well beyond dishes and flavors originating in the New England area, serving up general American cooking with occasional regional overtones, such as expected items like traditional Boston bean soup and Indian pudding. Yankee chili with ground beef is adopted from the Southwest and lasagna, beef braised in beer with wild rice, tabouli and spaetzle reveal foreign roots. And braised turkey breast in yogurt, crayfish, ham and snow peas with buckwheat pasta, and tofu breakfast scramble defy identification as anything but ``modern.'' Cookbook editor Judith Jones is the coauthor of the L.L. Bean Game & Fish Cookbook; Evan Jones is the author of American Food. Illustrations not seen by PW. Literary Guild featured alternate. (November 19)