Chez Panisse Cooking

In the 15 years of its existence, Chez Panisse has become a landmark among American restaurants. Now, Paul Bertolli, chef at Chez Panisse since 1982, offers his version, with Alice Waters, of Chez Panisse cooking. Their rich and literate volume is written with care and grace. The introduction to bread-baking is an essay, not a manual; an explanation of oils and their uses makes helpful and diverting reading. One of the book's chief virtues is the way the authors bring a sophisticated cuisine and its techniques within reach of non- specialists, while also refreshing the most sated palates. Many wonderful recipes will reward readers. Among the most enticing: fish soup with rouille (a red pepper sauce); stuffed artichokes; eggplant croutons; rosemary noodles with pigeon essences; and buckwheat cakes with smoked salmon. Theme menus are included in an appendix. Without doubt, this sequel to Waters's Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook will reach an equally broad and enthusiastic audience. Photos not seen by PW. (Oct.)