Cobblers, Crumbles, & Crisps and Other Old-Fashioned Fruit Desserts

In this brief but enjoyable volume, Zimmerman ( Puddings, Custards and Flans ) and Mellody ( In the Chips: The Complete Chocolate Chip Cookbook ) define and describe early American and British dessert classics, then elevate many to new heights with novel twists and variations. Among the standouts: apple, rhubarb and fennel crisp; ``frosty mango fool,'' a frozen dessert that incorporates creme fraiche; and bourbon pear Betty. To their credit, the authors don't muck up these stalwarts by trying to please weight watchers; the recipes are replete with cream, milk and butter. However, the sheer volume of fresh fruit used tilts the balance toward satisfyingly healthful, if not exactly light fare. Useful cooking tips, advice on preparation methods, and master recipes for crusts, cakes, sauces and toppings round out the book. (May)