The Modern Seafood Cook: New Tastes, New Techniques, New Ease

Home cooks are given extensive preparation for servingperfect, often simple seafood dishes with this collection from Brown, chef at Rockefeller Center's Sea Grill in N.Y.C., and Boehm, of Peter Kump's New York Cooking School. Nearly a quarter of the book is taken up with the section ``Getting Ready,'' which covers shopping, storing, cooking methods, strategies and advice on creating a seafood pantry. The recipes that follow are straightforward, tempting and uncomplicated, aimed at highlighting the central ingredient. Included are some new twists: Pumpkin Soup with Bay Scallops and Mushrooms; Lobster with Vanilla Sauce; and Soft-Shell Crab Club Sandwiches (with bacon, tomato, Bibb lettuce and tarragon). Recipes for Popcorn Shrimp, Grilled Crab 'N Cheddar on White and Farfalle with Creamy Oysters and Smoked Salmon seem sure to please a variety of tastes. Substitutions and variations are suggested in the ``Cook's Option'' for each recipe. Quick reference listings group recipes in such useful categories as ``Low Calorie,'' ``Quick to Do'' and ``Children Will Love.'' Illustrations not seen by PW. (Nov.)