Down-Home Wholesome: 300 Low-Fat Recipes from a New Soul Kitchen

Carter removes the lard from traditional African American food, but she leaves the soul in place. Substitutions, such as butter and vegetable shortening in the panoply of biscuit recipes, and a chatty, familiar prose style add charm and spark to this informative, unfussy collection. Ranging over a full repertoire, the collection includes a chapter on refreshing drinks (Gingerade, Rosemary Wine) and another on bath and beauty preparations (Sage Facial Toner) made with kitchen ingredients. Old favorites such as Hoppin' John, made with black-eyed peas, rice and coconut milk, share the limelight with such newfangled ideas as Lemon-Garlic Grits. Carter, a food writer, makes convincing pitches for organic vegetables and Sunday family dinners. Foods of New Orleans (Chicken and Shrimp Jambalaya, Fancy Mess o' Greens), those of Georgia's Gullah tradition (Shrimp and Grits Gratin) and even oysters (Deviled Oysters, Oyster Pie) are given their own chapters. Nutritional information per serving is included with each recipe (although occasionally serving sizes must be estimated); lists of basic kitchen equipment and mail-order sources round out this impressively thorough endeavor. (Jan.)