Simple Desserts

For Haedrich, simple means recipes demanding neither adroit fingers nor long hours of preparation. There's little in the tempting fare here to scare the average cook. Try cookies, he suggests. What could be simpler than a few of The Greenery's Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cookies or Tess's Whole Wheat Ginger Cookies? A humble pudding, like Maple Indian Pudding, he asserts, puts diners at ease; a compote such as Grapefruit and Raspberries in Red Wine Syrup is an unusual finish. Fans of Haedrich's healthful Country Baking won't be surprised when wheat germ shows up in a Lemon Cake. Eyebrows may rise, however, at the rich Chocolate Pate with Raspberry Sauce listing among its ingredients a cup of heavy cream, a pound of bittersweet chocolate, four egg yolks, a stick of butter and a third of a cup of Grand Marnier, to serve 12. Haedrich demystifies phyllo, pie crusts and yeast for those intimidated by final courses, but the primary virtue of this collection is its breadth of recipes from unadorned tortes and cakes to the crystalline purity of Blueberry Lime Sorbet. The most unexpected and intriguing confection is Grapes, Feta Cheese and Basil. (Oct.)