Butter Sugar Flour Eggs: Whimsical Irresistible Desserts

The recipes in this quirky, deceptively simple collection--the second from the culinary team of Gand, Tramonto and Moskin (American Brasserie)--move far beyond the basics. Chocolate Chip Pancakes and Warm Taffy Apples with Cinnamon Pastry Twists bring out the kid in the cook, while Cardamom-Coffee Custard and Gruy re with Pear Confit appeal to the most sophisticated palates. The recipes are organized into chapters devoted to particular ingredients; they are prefaced by over-the-top odes--for example, to the virtues of Sugar (""Apply just a little warmth, and she melts"") and the vices of Chocolate (""No one is more intense, or knows more about giving pleasure""). On the other hand, the authors have taken care to include interesting background information on each of the ingredients, as well as helpful advice on selecting, using and storing them. This book will best suit the tastes of bakers whose love of sweet confections far outweighs a concern with calories. Indeed, the first recipe in the book is for ""Purely Pound Cake"" and calls for a pound each of butter, sugar, flour and eggs. (Oct.)