cover image THE WAY WE COOK: Recipes from the New American Kitchen

THE WAY WE COOK: Recipes from the New American Kitchen

Sheryl Julian, Julie Riven, with photos by Karen Wise. . Houghton Mifflin, $27 (400pp) ISBN 978-0-618-17149-1

Julian and Riven, cooking columnists for the Boston Globe, promise their book to be uncomplicated and practical while at the same time elegant and informed—and they more than live up to their promise. "We aren't restaurateurs and we don't think people at home, taking times from their busy lives, should pretend to be either," they tell the reader, and say they've written a book the average American household can really use. Filled with simple recipes for the modern kitchen, the book offers enthusiastic introductions to each dish, and the recipes, which are written in a warm, mentoring tone, have ample guidelines and helpful tips. The authors shed light on cooking the Roast Pork Tenderloins with Caramelized Onions: "Pork is safe—and quite good—cooked until it is pink, not grayish-white like everyone did years ago." The suggestions for variations on any recipe are novel without being showy: for Chicken Pot Pie with Rich Pastry, they recommend a Salmon and Mushroom Pot Pie variation, which instructs the cook to simply halve the pastry recipe. The photographs that accompany the recipes are simple and instructive. Sections, aptly named "When You're in a Rush," "Good Enough for Company" and "If You Like to Bake," make choosing the right recipe a snap. Reminiscent of that 1980s standby, The Silver Palate, Julian and Riven's cookbook is innovative enough to be inspiring but familiar enough not to strike fear in the heart of the average cook. (June)