Great Grains

Drachman, a former food editor for Country Inns/Bed & Breakfast, and Wynne, a freelance journalist, present an appealing and wide-ranging collection of more than 120 healthful recipes that encourage a sensible approach to eating, based on nutrient-rich, low-fat grains. Each recipe is annotated with data on calories, fat (total and saturated), fiber, sodium, protein and carbohydrates, to help cooks make informed choices. When dishes have a particular nutritional advantage, like the buckwheat rye rolls that provide a good source of thiamin and niacin, such information is highlighted. There are imaginative suggestions for every meal. Peach cornmeal pancakes and lemon-oat bran muffins make deluxe breakfast items. Creamy carrot rice soup gets its ``creaminess'' from pureed rice, and grilled turkey salamistet--it is turkey salami and cheese on rye uses part-skim mozzarella and is baked rather than fried; both dishes would be satisfying components of a reduced-fat lunch. For dinner, meat loaf made with ground turkey or a hearty brisket of beef with kasha and mushrooms allow cooks to go light on the budget as well. Hill is a dietician who writes for Food & Wine. (May)