cover image Classic Indian Veget Ck

Classic Indian Veget Ck

Julie Sahni. William Morrow Cookbooks, $30 (512pp) ISBN 978-0-688-04995-9

One might expect that this fine sequel to Sahni's Classic Indian Cooking covers a smaller subject than that earlier work. But since most Indians are vegetarians, and since they cook in a diversity of styles, this new volume in many senses gives a truer panorama of that nation's classic cuisine. After an exhaustive glossary of foodstuffs and spices that make up the Indian larder, Sahni launches into the recipes, which in a rare concession to Western ways are arranged course by course. There is much that even a devotee of Indian cooking will find new in the areas of fritters and griddle cakes, braised dishes, lentils, chutneys. Though the ingredients are often exotic, Sahni's directions for buying (a mail-order guide is included) and cooking are precise. She brings some of the subtler practices of one of the world's great cuisines within America's reach. Foreign rights: Esther Newberg, ICM. November 25