Simple Menus for the Bento Box

The Japanese shokado bento (boxed meal) is a gustatory treasure chest: open the lid and discover a meal of four highly flavored, complementary dishes, artfully arranged. New York City chefs Ellen Greaves, of Takashimaya's Tea Box Cafe, and Wayne Nish, from the restaurant March, have collaborated on a truly unusual cookbook, managing to focus closely on presentation while keeping flavor and ingredients of primary importance. Each of the 12 seasonal menus features four mostly American dishes of about half the usual entree size, with no designated first course, main or side dishes. The winter dinner pictured on the cover, for instance, includes sauteed Spinach with Sesame Seeds, a pyramid of tiny Grilled Ham and Cheese Sandwiches, triangles of Herb-steamed Swordfish, and Roasted Red Pepper and Sun-dried Tomato Soup. Most of the 48 recipes can be prepared ahead, leaving time for the all-important assembly and presentation. Over 75 color photographs (taken by Nish) illustrate the effect of attentive composing: chives and creme fraiche stripe Sweet and Snow Pea Soup; the sticky rice in Japanese Rice with Salted Peanuts and Scallions is pressed into a flower shape. Instructions are straightforward and will please any home cook who relishes the processes of cooking and plating. While the authors provide a source list for boxes themselves and suitable serving plates and cups, recipes for such dishes as Lobster on Leeks with Fennel and Carrot to Arborio Rice with Goat Cheese and Tomato can also be served on conventional dinner plates. (Aug.)