Bugialli's Italy: Traditional Recipes from the Regions of Italy

Bugialli brings together another sampling of Italian cooking (The Fine Art of Italian Cooking; The Foods of Sicily and Sardinia and the Smaller Islands, 1996), although here he takes the level of difficulty up a notch, calling for unusual ingredients or equipment. Bugialli is most creative--and challenging--in the chapter on first courses: Ravioli with Sole Sauce from the Marches is a lengthy project; Abruzzi's ""Guitar"" Pasta with Pepper Sauce is more reasonable, but making the pasta requires a special tool (a wooden implement strung with metal wires--the inspiration for the name). Other appetizers include a Soup of Stuffed Romaine Lettuce Leaves from Liguria, which features bundles of lettuce with a sweetbread stuffing. The handful of risotto recipes includes Risotto with Asparagus Tips and Risotto with Duck, Pheasant, or Chicken Livers. Main courses are simpler, but somewhat familiar: Shrimp Wrapped in Pancetta Cooked on Skewers; Veal Shank in Vegetable Sauce; and Sausages Baked with Cauliflower and Potatoes. Desserts such as Apricot Semifreddo (eaten all over Italy) and Almond Sponge Cake from Padua round out the selection. Although these dishes require time to prepare, patient cooks will have no problem following Bugialli's recipes, each of which includes a regional label; most sport informative headers. Tie-in to PBS series; author tour. (Oct.)