Creole

French celebrity chef de Rozieres doesn't waste any time in this sumptuous, brightly-colored collection of Caribbean dishes-a mere one-page introduction separates the table of contents from the food. De Rozieres opens with a voluminous take on fish and seafood ranging from the familiar (calamari and stuffed clams) to classic native fare such as blaffs (named for the sound fish makes when added to a hot bath of water and spices) and upscale dishes such as Conch Ravioli with Crab and Lemongrass sauce. Her reliance on fresh, local food is both strength and liability; seemingly every recipe calls for something indigenous, but de Rozieres provides a handy index for substituting rare ingredients like madere leaves and salt cod. Once familiar with terms and substitutions, cooks will likely dive into dishes like Mango Fricassee Parcels, puff pastry filled with sauteed mangoes; Creole Paella loaded with chicken, shellfish and octopus; as well as island versions of New Orleans standards Bananas Foster and beignets. Photographs by Akiko Ida and Pierre Javelle provide a visual feast, artfully and festively capturing native fish, ice blue seascapes and finished dishes. Delightfully different from the American approach, de Rozieres' thoughtful and flavorful collection of island Creole cooking is a solid resource.