cover image Man Bites Dog: Hot Dog Culture in America

Man Bites Dog: Hot Dog Culture in America

Bruce Kraig and Patty Carroll. Rowman & Littlefield/AltaMira, $40 (200p) ISBN 978-0-7591-2073-0

In this cleverly titled volume, Kraig takes a look at the American hot dog phenomenon, giving the history and folklore behind the foodstuff that became "quintessential public dining treats%E2%80%94long before the rise of hamburgers%E2%80%94sold on streets, at fairs and festivals, at picnics (weenie roasts), and in fast food venues." Not surprisingly, sections on how hot dogs are actually produced, with descriptions of "high-speed choppers" used to blend meat trimmings, spices and other ingredients "into an emulsion or batter," can be less than appetizing. Talk of industrial sausage machines and the "hazard[s] of butchery" also prove difficult to digest. But chapters on the simple pleasures of eating hot dogs and the numerous ways which they can be served pull readers back in. A fully loaded Chicago dog, for example, "has mustard, bright green relish, chopped onions, tomato slices, pickle slices, and small sport peppers jammed onto the bun." And currywurst, first popular in Germany, is "covered in a sweet-hot sauce" and "served on paper plates." Photographer Carroll includes images of old-school hot dog stands and pushcarts, helping to illustrate this sometimes disturbing but always bright tribute to an American food classic. With recipes and full color photos. (Jan.)