Classic American Natural Desserts

Smither, a composer, musician and author of eight books on keyboard music, offers characteristically American desserts for those who are determined to whittle down their consumption of refined sugar while satisfying a sweet tooth. Though the book depends on ingredients that will be stocked by most good health-food stores, the recipe directions are clear and accompanied by suggestions for variations, as well as by valuable opening advice in each chapter. Smither leaves little to the imagination, translating even three-quarters of a cup of butter into its equivalent, 11/2 sticks. Among the best offerings from the sweets: a rich pudding cake, crisp vanilla cookies, homemade graham crackers, cinnamon rolls, and maple fudge and divinity candy. One caveat: the market for this volume might be diminished by the fact that while the recipes contain no refined sugar, they are hardly dietetic--cream and butter put in many appearances, and bring calories with them. (Feb.)