Natural Menu Cookbook

This unwieldy spinoff of the publisher's The Vegetarian's Guide to Natural Food Restaurants brings many of the dishes described in the earlier book into the kitchen as home-cooked fare. These recipes from restaurants throughout the U.S. (at least one from each state) are meatless but rely heavily on dairy and eggs; Summerfield gives some brief, general tips for reducing fat in her introduction. Each recipe is accompanied by a cheery header and description of the restaurant that contributed it; but, since most restaurants have contributed several recipes, these notes become repetitious, and Summerfield resorts to listing the famous people who have dined on the premises (Robert Bly, Phil Collins and Saint Keshav Das have all eaten at Delites of India in Minneapolis). Recipes are clearly written, and illustrations are provided for the more complicated techniques like folding Mushroom Phyllo Turnovers with Mushroom Glaze. There are some refreshing surprises (Summery Watermelon Salad with Raspberry Vinaigrette; Beet Souffle) and such ethnic specialties as Pierogies and sour and spicy Tom Yum Pak Soup are appealing. Nevertheless, unremarkable vegetarian standbys are over-represented (three recipes for lasagna and three for scrambled tofu) as Summerfield takes a cue from the restaurant owners and focuses on the familiar rather than on the innovative. (Oct.)