Unabashed Onion and Garlic

Despite a title that could send many a cook straight to the cutting board, this collection is somewhat disappointing. The authors, who also wrote the Lemon Tree Very Healthy Cookbook, tap a range of cuisines, offering Spanish Garlic Mushrooms as an appetizer, Spicy Mashed Potato Salad from Peru, Chunky Leek & Vegetable Soup from Bulgaria and Chicken Paprika from Hungary, not to mention condiments including a ""lethal"" Garlic Chili Paste from Peru and an Indian Fry Bread from the American Southwest. Calling for healthful ingredients and reduced fat, the dishes nevertheless lack the panache needed to reward cooks for experimenting with this particular take on Fried Rice or vegetarian Shepherd's Pie, rather than whipping up a familiar version. Recipes are straightforward, and many are simple enough to prepare after a full day of work. One caveat, however, requires mention. While the authors favor arrowroot as a thickener (e.g., in Onion Soup and Spicy Sweet Chicken, a casserole), they do not caution cooks that overcooking can make it lose its thickening properties. In an undistinguished tofu Sauerbraten, arrowroot is treated as if it were flour, thus actually reducing its thickening capability. Generally appealing, this collection is better in conception than execution: food that makes one's best friends back away should be more exciting than this. (Sept.)