R'Ockenwagner

Infusing traditional German cuisine with Asian flavors, Rockenwagner, owner of an eponymous restaurant in Santa Monica, Calif., makes his own distinctive contribution to California's culinary cachet. A cooking-style cousin of Chicago chef Charlie Trotter, Rockenwagner meticulously presents some 150 recipes for dishes served at his establishment. Ambitious and minutely attentive to detail and presentation, many of these recipes will prove daunting and time-consuming even for highly skilled home chefs. Most recipes, such as a Roasted Quail with Pomegranate Reduction and Bread and Bacon Stuffing on Bitter Greens, call for specialty ingredients (e.g., Thai curry paste and fresh pomegranate juice), homemade staples (curry oil) and separate preparation of many edibles that are painstakingly assembled on the plate. Others challenge the limits of home kitchens (e.g., the pretzel dough used in buns and breads can be too stiff for home mixers to handle). Nevertheless, cooks of all levels can consult this guide for culinary secrets, including adding vinegar to balance out sauces. The dazzling repertoire includes Asparagus Cornucopias with Lobster Medallions and Balsamic Sauce, Grilled Marinated Portobello Mushroom Sandwiches, Lamb Loin with a Tarragon Crust and Red Wine Sauce and Macaronnade de Chocolate. Ambitious cooks who don't want to tackle Rockenwagner's recipes in all their complexity will find ample inspiration here for their own inventions and variations.(Mar.)