How To Boil An Egg: Poach One, Scramble One, Fry One, Bake One, Steam One

In her second cookbook (after Breakfast, Lunch, Tea), Carrarini takes on the “simple ingredient” of eggs with gusto. Having cooked for years and “never paid eggs any special attention,” the author realized the wide variety of culinary possibilities that can be realized using eggs. There are of course the “easy” preparations such as frying and scrambling (as the title implies), but these are just the beginning. The recipes progress into dishes that are more complex in technique and flavor. Eggs baked in dashi offers a Japanese take on the classic French oeufs en cocotte (eggs in a pot), and lacy eggs over vegetables describes an interesting cooking technique and presentation (“lacing an egg”). There are also recipes for more well-rounded meals, such as cheddar, leek, and curry scones and chawanmushi, another traditional Japanese dish. Based on recipes from Carrarini’s acclaimed Rose Bakery in Paris, and with exquisitely hand-drawn paintings of dishes in the book by Fiona Strickland, this is a must-have for those interested in transforming their “simple” egg experience into something extraordinary. (Mar.)