cover image The Plimoth Plantation New England Cookery Book

The Plimoth Plantation New England Cookery Book

Malabar Hornblower, Plimoth Plantation. Harvard Common Press, $12.95 (224pp) ISBN 978-1-55832-027-7

This volume comprises two accomplished cookbooks, one historical and one modern. Three chapters, prepared by the staff of Plimoth Plantation, a living museum of Pilgrim history, discuss culinary history and translate into modern terms recipes from 16th- and 17th-century English cooks, American settlers and Wampanoag Indians. Selections range from the humble pease pottage (porridge) of nursery rhyme fame to a whimsical ``snow'' of cream, egg whites and sugar from which an edible ``miniature winter landscape'' was created. Even when Hornblower ( Do Ahead Entertaining ) takes over for modern dishes, most of these are steeped in tradition--for example, steamed brown bread and baked beans. The simple instructions can walk beginning cooks through complex procedures, such as timing an assortment of vegetables to accompany corned beef in a New England boiled dinner. Predictably, many of the dishes are hearty, but several offerings, notably seafood recipes such as salmon baked in grapefruit juice, are lighter. (Nov.)