Pennsylvania Dutch Country Cooking

The term ``Pennsylvania Dutch cooking'' covers a lot of ground, and almost has to. In this meticulously researched book, Weaver ( Quaker Woman's Cookbook ), a 13th-generation Pennsylvanian and Mennonite descendent, clearly and insightfully explains the complex heritage of the people now known as the Pennsylvania Dutch, discussing their history and the meetings of New World and European traditions. The book evokes the close harmony between a people, the seasons, and the food they grow and cook. With beautiful photographs and ample illustrations, this is an excellent introduction to a complicated regional history and culture. Each recipe is accompanied by a brief explanation of its place in that culture. The recipes, however, are not to be taken up lightly; though Weaver has done an outstanding job of adapting them to the modern kitchen, they require both skill and time, and the use of labor-saving devices is not favored. Many recipes call for homemade stocks and organic grains, and will require the reader to hunt down ingredients in specialty shops. Some, like ``hinkeldarremkuche'' (chickweed pie), even call for readers to harvest their own chickweed. But for those with the dedication, culinary delights await: Christmas ``mummeli'' (gingerbread men), ``hickeniss-gnepp'' (hickory-nut dumplings) and ``forty-nine beans,'' the Penn Dutch answer to applejack. A sturdy source list is provided. (Nov.)