cover image GERONIMO: Fine Dining in Santa Fe

GERONIMO: Fine Dining in Santa Fe

Cliff Skoglund, Eric DiStefano, . . Ten Speed, $50 (256pp) ISBN 978-1-58008-491-8

The Geronimo of the title isn't the famous Apache medicine man, but rather Gerónimo Lopez, who built an adobe house for his family of 13 in 1756 (or perhaps it's Gerónimo Gonzalez, who bought the place in 1769). Either way, the restored building stands today as one of Santa Fe's most popular restaurants. Owner Skoglund and head chef DiStefano go for broke, throwing simplicity to the wind in this highbrow collection of 125 of Geronimo's most savory delicacies. An early disclaimer can be read as either a call to arms for challenge-seeking gourmets, or a retreat signal for those without a foie gras budget: "We know that some of the techniques we describe may, at first glance, seem a bit daunting... we have occasionally referred to hard-to-find items...." This is no understatement, as exemplified by such entrées as "Quick" Braised Rabbit Saddle with Matzo Scallion Dumplings, and Mesquite-Grilled Peppery Elk Tenderloin with Garlic Confit Potatoes and Exotic Mushroom Sauce. Before attempting either, one might indulge in a Martini Shot, consisting of Vodka Sorbet with puréed cucumber topped off with crème fraiche and "a generous dollop of caviar." The salads chapter offers lighter, though similarly complex, alternatives. As counterbalance, the authors interject interesting, even soothing, passages on the life of the restaurant and the restaurateur way of life. (Aug.)