Gold has made her culinary mark with sophisticated dishes that use only three ingredients (Recipes 1-2-3, Entertaining 1-2-3). In her latest book, she combines the 1-2-3 principle with a more nutrition-conscious approach. Readers should be under no illusions: 1-2-3 isn't fast and easy; despite the abbreviated ingredient list (salt, pepper and water don't count), many of the ingredients, such as candied violets, Japanese kombu and pomegranate molasses, aren't exactly standard cupboard fare, and few of the recipes can be made inexpensively. Gold's technique does offer concentrated, balanced flavors, elegant in their restraint. But how healthy are these tasty new trios? According to Gold (who details her own struggles to lose weight), olive oil, butter, cheese, eggs, sugar and even chocolate can all be eaten ""as part of"" an overall balanced diet. For example, a dish like the silken Carrot Soup with Ginger Essence might use heavy cream, but only one-third cup, divided among six servings. All of which sounds perfectly sensible, but Gold's most eye-catching recipes like Smoked Salmon with Wasabi Cream, Potted Leeks and Corned Beef in Riesling, Scalloped Cheese Potatoes, and Cinnamon-chocolate Ciambella aren't slimming by any measure. (Apr.) Forecast: Gold's devotees will likely snap this book up instantaneously. However, while bookstore browsers unfamiliar with the author may be lured by the book's title, upon opening it they may find it less inspiring than they had hoped, dampening prospective sales.