Organized by cooking method, UK restaurateur and food writer Tonks' (Fish: The Complete Fish and Seafood Companion) latest collection of seafood recipes does an admirable job of emphasizing ease of preparation without sacrificing flavor. Though the measurements have been converted to allow stateside seafoodies to try their hand at Grilled Squid with Oregano and Chili, Ragù of Red Mullet with Penne, or Braised Lobster with Sherry and Onions, many of the ingredients—often the fish or shellfish that's the star of the dish—are very difficult to find on these shores. Those with a well-outfitted fishmonger may have little trouble sourcing John Dory, octopus, or monkfish, but sea bream, spider crab, cockles, and the seemingly ubiquitous gurnard might remain elusive. While the majority of his preparations will likely transfer to other fish or shellfish, Tonks rarely offers suggestions for substitutions. Once readers are able to locate the seafood required, they'll find that most of his recipes are straightforward and come together nicely, even if the writing style is a mix of step-by-step, linear, and traditional formats. Readers should also be prepared to come up with ideas for sides on their own—Tonks' focus here is strictly on the main dishes. Home cooks interested in expanding their culinary repertoire will likely find this interesting and accessible, but novices may feel alienated by the ever-changing recipe layouts and arcane ingredients. Photos. (July)
