When Colicchio, restaurateur and head judge of the TV show Top Chef
, turned his attention to sandwiches, chances were slim that the result would look much like the pathetic specimens found in most brown bags. Instead, at ’wichcraft, the sandwich shop he created with Ortuzar, they built on a common realization of home cooks and chefs: the best sandwiches are made with food that was, or could be, part of a good meal—not just disparate elements that probably spent too long in plastic packaging. Hence, a breakfast sandwich of skirt steak with fried eggs and oyster mushrooms; a hearty meatloaf sandwich with cheddar, bacon and tomato relish; and recipes for condiments like balsamic onion marmalade. Classic sandwiches like roast beef or peanut butter and jelly are transformed by the use of freshly roasted meat and homemade jelly, but the book also features some of ’wichcraft’s more unusual creations, such as the ravioli-inspired roasted pumpkin with mozzarella and hazelnut brown butter sandwich, as well as unexpectedly luscious dessert sandwiches. Those looking for the easiest, cheapest fare will not find much of it here, but anyone willing to put in the time and effort to find the best ingredients and prepare them well will be rewarded. Color photos not seen by PW
. (Mar.)
