WEB EXCLUSIVE: Dining in the Windy City 2004
by the creators of The Unofficial Guide to Chicago -- Publishers Weekly, 5/3/2004
The City of Big Shoulders is big on eating. You can
start a lengthy conversation with any Chicagoan on food, the weather, the Cubs and the Bears, likely in that order. And the great thing about this town is that it sustains everything from world-class chef talent to tasty ethnic hideaways, usually without the hassle and crowds at other dining destinations. Embarking on a gustatory safari is the perfect way to unwind after a day (or two, or four) in the convention trenches.
Here are some of the best places to eat we’ve found in Chicago, all accessible from McCormick Place and environs. Some are local favorites, some are hidden gems, and some are new and changing establishments. We’ve divvied them up by area, starting with the Loop proper, moving north along the shore of Lake Michigan, and then rotating counterclockwise to the south.
THE LOOP
The Berghoff (inexpensive, 17 West Adams Street, 312-427-3170) is a traditional German restaurant housed in a turn-of-the-19th-century building. The Rathskeller downstairs serves lunch. Both offer Teutonic fare like sauerbraten, Wiener schnitzel, fillet of sole, bratwurst, creamed herring and braised lamb shank. In acknowledgement of modern tastes, lighter selections are available. Truly a Chicago landmark, the place has been family-operated for over a hundred years.
Blackbird (expensive, 619 West Randolph Street, 312-715-0708) is a minimalist, stark-white West Loop hot spot that exudes New York attitude. A diverse and always well-dressed crowd flocks here weekdays through the weekend, making reservations necessary. Tables are extremely close and the noise level often high. The seasonal menu might feature blackbird bouillabaisse; daily selection of fish and shellfish with fennel, potato, saffron, garlic, thyme, and grilled bread; seared Maine diver scallops with caramelized cauliflower, honshimejis, pickled chiogga beets and hazelnut vinaigrette; or seared breast of California squab with old Chatham ricotta gnocchi, broccoli rabe, garlic and fresh herbs.
Those who desire concentrated Francophilia should attempt Everest (expensive, 40th floor, One Financial Place, 440 South LaSalle Street, 312-663-8920), surely one of the finest French restaurants in the nation. The cuisine here is masterful and favorably influenced by the chef’s home region of Alsace. Indulge in the terrine of pheasant, partridge and squab marbled with wild herbs and vegetables; the Maine lobster roasted with Alsace Gewürztraminer and ginger; or the ballotine of skate stuffed with mushrooms and wrapped around nonsour Alsatian sauerkraut in a light Riesling juniper-berry sauce.
Heaven on Seven (inexpensive, 7th floor, Garland Building, 111 N. Wabash Ave., 312-263-6443) is a funky Cajun/Creole place that started life as a coffee shop. The lunch lines are long but they move fast, and the array of hot sauces hurt so good. Favorites include soft-shell po’boys, pasta shrimp angry and pasta shrimp voodoo, crawfish tamales, jambalaya and rabbit with mushroom etouffe.
The technological breakthroughs of naugahyde, Formica and fake plants are celebrated at Lou Mitchell’s Restaurant (inexpensive, 565 West Jackson Boulevard, 312-939-3111). This is lowbrow, high camp, retro diner authenticity at its finest, complete with Rat Pack background music. Classic feeds: eggs and fluffy, in-the-skillet omelets made with double-yolk eggs; Belgian malted waffles; grilled French toast; homemade pie. Extensive daily specials run the gamut from corned beef hash and hot turkey sandwiches to chicken pot pie, baked short ribs and “creamed baked macaroni au gratin.”
Dedicated carnivores may head directly to Nine (expensive, 440 W. Randolph St., 312-575-9900). The soaring silver-leaf domed ceiling, waterfall wall, mirrored pillars and plush ultrasuede booths make for sumptuous supping. Surf and turf choices include American caviar parfaits; cones of lobster with avocado and Asian tuna tartare; crispy Carolina rock shrimp; Alaskan halibut with wild mushrooms, English peas, pink peppercorn butter and white truffle oil; 12-ounce filet mignon with béarnaise sauce; 16-ounce New York strip; and a 22-ounce porterhouse.
Dramatic fantasy decor separates Vivere (expensive, 71 West Monroe Street, 312-332-4040) from its more staid, traditional surroundings in the Italian Village restaurant complex. Offered cuccina Italiano includes grilled chicken breast with baby spinach, caramelized red onions, toasted sesame seeds, goat cheese and spicy honey mustard dressing; costoletta di maiale arrosto (pan-roasted pork chop with white-wine thyme sauce; speidino del giomo (skewered seafood daily special); and daily risotto specials.
NEAR NORTH
The bigger-than-life space at Chilpancingo (moderate, 358 West Ontario Street, 312-266-9525) opens with a gurgling fountain and semicircular staircase into a colorful dining room. Mural-sized works of Mexican folk art hang over diners enjoying Nuevo Latino fare. Choices include corn masa boats with chicken, plantain and black beans; tostados with ceviche; homemade tortillas in a savory pumpkin-seed sauce filled with hardboiled egg; carne asada; roasted duck breast with chipotle chilies, fresh mushrooms and zucchini; and garlic-marinated jumbo sea scallops in sour cream sauce with fingerling potatoes.
The comfortable ambience is clubby chic at Cru Cafe and Wine Bar (moderate, 888 North Wabash Ave., 312-337-4078), where even the menu has style—it’s a leather-bound book full of wines and their descriptions from around the world. The fare is light but creatively prepared, with choices including a lobster club sandwich, fresh oysters of the day, or the B.L.A.S.T. (bacon, lettuce, avocado, shrimp and tomato sandwich with lemon mayonnaise). The extensive wine list is complimented by a variety of interesting cheese flights.
Sultry, French colonial–style Le Colonial (moderate, 937 North Rush Street, 312-255-0088) sports spinning ceiling fans, live palm plants, bamboo shutters and sepia-toned vintage photos of Vietnam. There’s an intimate upstairs lounge that’s a real find. The menu offers choices like goi bo (spicy marinated beef salad); bo bia (soft salad rolls with julienne vegetables and a sweet apricot dipping sauce); ca chien Saigon (crisp Vietnamese whole red snapper); and vit quay (ginger-marinated roast duck with a tamarind sauce).
Stylish and contemporary without being severe, the architectural dining room at mk (expensive, 868 North Franklin Street, 312-482-9179) is spacious and airy, with a pleasantly sophisticated neutral color palette. Plush lounge furniture in the entry area is a great stop for a glass of bubbly before or after. New American options include chilled Maine lobster with mango leeks, sugar snap peas, and English mustard cream; honey-lacquered Peking duck with glazed baby bok choy and orange ginger glaze; and grilled sirloin with red wine sauce and baby spinach.
Another mandatory stop on the carnivorous caravan is Morton’s (expensive, 1050 North State Street, 312-266-4820). This is quintessential Chicago steakhouse territory, complete with photo-lined walls and a discreet entrance reminiscent of a speakeasy. Belly up to jumbo lump crabmeat or shrimp cocktail; Caesar salad; lobster bisque; double filet mignon in béarnaise sauce; 24-ounce porterhouse steak, also available as a 48-ounce double; whole baked Maine lobster; or farm-raised salmon.
Spiaggia (expensive, 980 North Michigan Avenue, 312-280-2750) has ultra-sophisticated ambience dramatically enhanced by looming 40-foot windows overlooking the fashionable intersection of Oak Street and Michigan Avenue. The multi-tiered dining room is done in subtle neutrals with spectacular light fixtures, black marble pillars and topiary. High-end Italian offerings include polipo con fagioli blanchi (grilled baby octopus, white beans, sweet and red bell peppers, capers, lemon and wild arugula); filletto di manzo (filet mignon with braised oxtail, broccoli, rapini and white truffle purple potato purée); and spaghetti alla chitarra (“guitar-string” pasta with Maine lobster, baby zucchini, garlic and basil).
The colorful dining room at Topolobampo (expensive, 445 North Clark Street, 312-661-1434) tempers sophistication with a sense of fun. The menu of Mexican dishes changes every two weeks. Sample items might include ensalada de chayote (chayote salad dressed with Spanish sparkling wine vinaigrette, house-made goat-milk queso fresco, Neuske bacon, watercress and pickled red onions); langosta en crema de calabaza (roasted Maine lobster in ancho-tinged pumpkin cream with mushroom and chard-stuffed delicata); or cochinita adobada (pork slow-roasted in banana leaves with guajillo chile marinade, served with rich pan juices, grilled acorn squash and braised greens).
Tru (expensive, 676 North St. Clair Street, 312-202-0001) is ultra-contemporary, stark and simple with a few original artworks; the buzz of the patrons and the plushy blue velvet purse stools keep the space from feeling sterile. Mainstays from the ever-changing New American menu include the caviar staircase (a sculptural glass spiral staircase dotted with various caviars and fixin’s); a tasting of various exquisite soups in eye-popping Gianni Versace cappuccino cups; potato-crusted Scottish salmon with artichokes, fennel salad and herb vinaigrette; or assiette of milk-fed veal, roasted loin, butter-poached breast and crispy sweetbreads.
The Zen-like atmosphere at Vong’s Thai Kitchen (moderate, 6 West Hubbard Street, 312-644-VONG) includes a torchiere wall of flickering lights, inspired by the candle-filled walls of Buddhist monasteries. The food is Thai-French fusion, and the chef’s imagination and skill are exemplary. Sample entrees: Muscovy duck breast, rare, with spicy tamarind-sesame sauce; monkfish baked with Thai spices and herbs; King salmon with morel mushrooms and turnips in cardamom broth. The signature “Black Plate” seasonal sampler is a great starter, with options like crab spring rolls, prawn satay or lobster daikon roll with rosemary ginger dip.
The ultra-swanky lobby of the W Hotel Lake Shore spills into Wave (moderate, 644 North Lake Shore Drive, 312-255-4460), where woven leather mats cover the floor, a continuous abstract video runs on one wall, and a community table draws single travelers and locals. Mediterranean-influenced choices include seared jumbo sea scallops with chilled gazpacho and rock shrimp ceviche; grilled baby octopus with poached Manila clams; cioppino-style bouillabaisse with seafood and fish in a tomato chili broth; and oven-roasted blacktail grouper with braised celery, pancetta and oranges.
NORTH SIDE
A longstanding neighborhood ethnic favorite, the Ethiopian restaurant Addis Abeba (inexpensive, 3521 North Clark Street, 773-929-9383) is refreshing change from contrived concepts and high prices. Exotic choices include doro wot (chicken simmered in berbere red pepper sauce, spiced butter and honey wine), yebeg alitcha (lamb slow-cooked in spiced butter, onions, garlic and tumeric), and zilzil tibs (beef strips marinated in red wine, red pepper sauce, garlic and cardamom). Expect to eat with your hands, grabbing up bits of food with moist injera bread.
This attractive Lincoln Park two-flat of Charlie Trotter’s (expensive, 816 West Armitage Avenue, 773-248-6228) is easy to miss, tucked behind a billowing trellis of greenery. The three small dining rooms are formal yet intimate, with white linens and exquisite stemware and silverware. The daily menu might include specialties like marinated bigeye tuna with daikon and hearts of palm; cold smoked sturgeon with purple Peruvian potato; squab breast with eggplant and boudin; or warm soufflé of acorn squash with butternut squash and pumpkin-seed vinaigrette.
Emilio’s Tapas (moderate, 444 West Fullerton Parkway, 773-327-5100) offers expansive dining rooms with Mediterranean splashes of color, tile and artifacts. The restaurant is comfortable and easy on the nerves—though often busy. Numerous tapas options include paella (two variations); sautéed wild mushrooms with Amontillado sherry sauce; grilled salmon with asparagus, potatoes and mustard-seed sauce; marinated leg of lamb with garlic potatoes, onions and red wine sauce; or grilled shrimp in garlic butter.
A former auto repair shop, Green Dolphin Street (moderate, 2200 North Ashland Avenue, 773-395-0066) still feels industrial with high ceilings and a wall of exposed brick, but it’s softened up a bit with white linens and faux-finished walls. House favorites include caviar service with assorted caviar and traditional accompaniments; lamb shank with chestnut and spiced pear purée, wilted beet greens, lamb jus; Indiana pork chop with grits, aged cheddar cheese, mustard greens and smoky red-eye gravy; and Newfoundland ocean trout with black lentils, marinated fennel and saffron vinaigrette.
Middle Eastern Maza (moderate, 2748 North Lincoln Avenue, 773-929-9600) is fresh and cozy, with high ceilings, exposed ductwork and colorful modern art covering the white walls. Graceful fabric drapes across the front windows, and ethnic music abounds. The menu offers fool modamas (simmered fava beans in herbs and spices with lemon juice, garlic, and olive oil); labneh (creamy yogurt with mint and black olives); fattoush (salad with crisp pita chips in a sumac dressing); and lamb or chicken brochettes.
Orange (inexpensive, 3231 North Clark Street, 773-549-4400) is a funky, homey, cheerful storefront with orange crates as art, exposed brick walls, natural floors and an eye-appealing fresh juice bar. Breakfast-centric options include “frushi” (rice rolled with fresh fruit in fruit leather), do-it-yourself crêpes; green eggs and ham (scrambled eggs with basil pesto, roasted tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella and diced pancetta); and jelly doughnut pancakes with lingonberries.
French Saigon lives again at Pasteur (inexpensive, 5525 North Broadway, 773-878-1061), with yet more overhead fans, palm plants and delicate Asian paintings in jewel tones. The front bar waiting area is also inviting, with deep crimson walls, straw bar seats and a comfortable couch. Good bets include cha gio (rice paper eggrolls with pork, woodear mushrooms and cellophane noodles served with a tangy fish sauce for dipping); thit nuong rau song (lemongrass, sesame, and honey-marinated beef, grilled and served with rice paper and fresh vegetables for hand-rolling); and chao tom (sugar cane stalks surrounded by ground shrimp with a peanut-plum dipping sauce).
One of the nicer rooms on this crowded stretch of Devon Avenue, Tiffin (moderate, 2536 West Devon Avenue, 773-338-2143) sports dark wood–trimmed walls, white linen tablecloths, a clean, heated buffet for lunch, and congenial hosts and waiters. The Indian menu offers masala dosai (thin pancake with potatoes and vegetables in a spicy curry sauce); tandoori chicken and lamb; lamb seekh kabab; chicken tikka masala; puloa (yogurt dip); and assorted biryanis (spiced long grain rice with vegetables, lamb or chicken).
NORTH CENTRAL CHICAGO & O’HARE
Mirai Sushi (moderate, 2020 West Division Street, 773-862-8500) is a bustling, bi-level Wicker Parker sushi scene, with a bright first-floor restaurant and sushi bar and a dark, sensuous sake lounge upstairs. Daily sushi selections change, but likely contenders are ise ebi (minced lobster served with fresh seaweed, quail egg, lotus, and sesame-lobster miso soy dressing); sakana carpaccio moriawase (tuna, salmon, and whitefish carpaccio with cilantro, capers, and sesame oil); and sakana mushi (steamed flounder with shiitake mushrooms in a ginger-sake-scallion sauce).
The ultra-modern, eccentric Mod (moderate, 1520 North Damen Avenue, 773-252-1500) features brightly colored acrylic room dividers, light fixtures and egg-shaped chairs. Hanging lights over the entryway bar are encased in plastic wrap for an odd effect. Equally eclectic menu choices include iron skillet–roasted black mussels in Meyer lemon butter; foie gras in rum-flambéed Maui pineapple; beet, frisée and goat cheese salad in a citrus vinaigrette; and “Texas truck stop” (jumbo ribeye chop with Stilton fondue, onions and wild mushrooms).
The upscale Greektown eatery Santorini (expensive, 800 West Adams, 312-829-8820) has a wood-burning fireplace in the center of the dining room, with various Mediterranean artifacts and baskets scattered about. It’s rustic and comfortable. Dining possibilities include roasted whole fish (red snapper or black sea bass), prepared simply with olive oil and lemon juice; Kamari beach calamari char-grilled with garlic, lemon juice, and olive oil; lemon sole; and seafood platter (lobster, shrimp, oysters, and fish).
SOUTH LOOP
House of Fortune (moderate, 2407 South Wentworth Avenue, 312-225-0880) is a spacious Chinatown restaurant set at the far south end of the Wentworth strip. The stark white walls and bright lighting are only softened by a few scattered modern Oriental art pieces. Large, round tables are abundant and frequently filled. Choices include pork tenderloin with cabbage; lemon chicken; Mongolian beef; Peking duck (doesn’t need to be ordered ahead); seaweed egg-drop soup; and spicy shrimp with ginger sauce.
If you’re looking to tie on a serious feedbag, head for Manny’s Coffee Shop & Deli (inexpensive, 1141 South Jefferson Street, 312-939-2855). This beloved Chicago institution has been dishing it up since 1942, and they’re not stopping anytime soon. Test your mettle versus the mile-high corned beef, pastrami and Reuben sandwiches; try the meat loaf or steamship round and beef brisket; or nosh on a knish. Stewed prunes await your pleasure at the end of the cafeteria-style line.
The Malaysian Penang (inexpensive, 2201 South Wentworth Avenue, 312-326-6888) has a casual, tiki-influenced atmosphere with large wooden tables, open ductwork and wood-beam accents. House specialties include roti canai (crispy Indian-style pancake served with egg, onion, and green chilies with curry chicken as dipping sauce); Penang satay chicken/beef (marinated chicken or beef on skewers, charcoal grilled and served with peanut sauce); Penang udang mee (noodles in chef’s special shrimp broth with shrimp, pork and bean sprouts); and seafood tom yum mee hoon (rice noodles in spicy-sour lemongrass broth with seafood and straw mushrooms).
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