WEB EXCLUSIVE: The Lowdown on Chicago Nightlife

by the editors of Frommer's Irreverent Guide to Chicago -- Publishers Weekly, 5/3/2004

When the lights on the trade show dim, it’s time to discover the hidden and not-so-hidden pleasures of Chicago’s nightlife.

DANCE FEVER

The beautiful people flock to Le Passage (1 Oak Place, Chicago Avenue el stop. Open until 4 a.m. $20 cover starting at 9 p.m. 312-255-0022), on the Gold Coast just steps from the designer boutiques where its regular clientele shops. Part dance club, part lounge, part restaurant, it’s can be all attitude—but if you dress to impress, you’re guaranteed good people-watching. The lighting at the Funky Buddha Lounge (728 W. Grand Ave., Chicago el stop. $10–20 cover. 312-666-1695) is so low that you can’t even see much of the dance floor. That’s a shame, because the couples grooving to the DJ’s deep-house spins are kind of an inspiration: sophisticated, racially mixed, slightly older than your typical club rats, with even a little sexual ambiguity. Moroccan-inspired Zentra (923 W. Weed St., North/Clybourn el stop. Open until 4 a.m. $15–$20 cover. 312-787-0400) offers techno upstairs, house and hip-hop downstairs, and an eclectic crowd more interested in hanging out than posing. What was once a neighborhood Polish bar has been transformed into a debonair nightclub with a beauty-salon theme named (somewhere Kate Pierson of the B-52s is smiling), Big Wig (1551 W. Division St., Division el stop. Closed Tues. Open until 2 a.m., Sat until 3 a.m. 773-235-9100) . With cans of mousse and hairspray on the walls, and couches concocted out of salon chairs, locals come to dance, drink and appreciate a good coif.

PLACES TO HEAR LIVE ROCK

Back when they were nobodies, REM and Nirvana both played the stage at Metro in Wrigleyville (3730 N. Clark St., Sheridan el stop. 773-549-0203), the city’s preeminent rock venue with tickets ranging from $12 to 20. Owner Joe Shanahan has expanded his franchise into rocker haven Wicker Park at Double Door (1572 N. Milwaukee Ave., Damen el stop. $5–15 cover. 773-489-3160) a former biker bar with high pressed-tin ceilings, a beautiful long bar, pool table downstairs in The Dirt Room and good acoustics for rock shows and more (DJ Jesse de la Peña is a weekly fixture). The other major rock outlet in the area is The Empty Bottle (1035 N. Western Ave., Western el stop, transfer to #49 Western bus. $5–10 cover. 773-276-3600) an arty club in the Ukrainian Village for the twentysomething crowd that usually books bands with impeccable indie credentials.

PLACES TO HEAR LIVE BLUES

Chicago’s famous for smoky blues joints where legendary musicians jam seven nights a week, practically until dawn. At Kingston Mines (2548 N. Halsted St., Fullerton el stop. Open until 4 a.m. $12–15 cover. 773-477-4646), a fixture for three decades in Lincoln Park, two stages in a comfortably decrepit setting keep the music going without interruption—making for a kind of nonstop frat party, given the crowd. Female vocalists like Gloria Hardiman and Big Time Sarah are the specialty in a pair of blues rooms blocks apart in the heart of the River North tourist zone, Blue Chicago (736 N. Clark St., Chicago and State el stop. Closed Sun. 312-642-6261; and 536 N. Clark St., Grand and State el stop. Closed Mon. 312-661-0100) where one $7 cover will get you into two clubs. Owner Gino Battaglia also is doing his part to cultivate the next generation of blues lovers: All-ages sets are held Saturday nights in a smoke- and alcohol-free performance space in the basement of the club’s gift shop. On the southern edge of downtown, Buddy Guy’s Legends ( 754 S. Wabash Ave., Harrison el stop. $8–15 cover. 312-427-0333) welcomes both local talents and established stars (Dr. John, Koko Taylor and Buddy Guy himself when he’s in town) to a spacious room catering to tourists with its Hard Rock–style displays of blues memorabilia.

PLACES TO HEAR LIVE JAZZ

Get an early start at Andy’s Jazz Club (11 E. Hubbard St., Grand and State el stop. $5–10 cover. 312-642-6805), a well-worn, friendly, downtown jazz listening lounge where the first set kicks off at lunch. One of the city’s most veteran jazz presenters, Joe Segal, has moved his Jazz Showcase (59 W. Grand Ave., Grand and State el stop. $15–20 cover. 312-670-BIRD) into a handsome new room in River North furnished with black-and-white photos of jazz legends who’ve played his clubs over the years. The caliber of music remains the same: a top-flight lineup of both national and local jazz acts. To hear jazz in a setting that hasn’t much changed since jazz’s golden age, nestle into a velvet booth at The Green Mill (4802 N. Broadway, Lawrence el stop. Open until 4 a.m. $6–15 cover. 773-878-5552), a deco-ish uptown club once owned by one of Al Capone’s henchmen. In its latest incarnation, the club has made a name for itself as one of the liveliest jazz venues in town, attracting a wildly eclectic crowd (all ages, classes and races) that keeps pouring in until the club’s late-night closing.

WHERE THE BOYS (AND GIRLS) ARE

An evening stroll down a 10-block strip of North Halsted Street—the Main Street of the lakeside gay enclave known as Boys’ Town—will keep any curious club crawler occupied late into the night. Excursions often start at Roscoe’s Tavern (3356 N. Halsted St., Belmont el stop. $4 cover Sat. after 10 p.m. 773-281-3355), an inviting antiques-laden saloon populated by a diverse mix of preppies, muscle boys and tourists. Continue across the street to Sidetrack (3349 N. Halsted St., Belmont el stop. 773-477-9189), a sleek video bar where the pretty-boy patrons ogle each other as much as the ubiquitous TV monitors showing Broadway musicals, Madonna videos and “Absolutely Fabulous” clips. Berlin (954 W. Belmont Ave., Belmont el stop. Open until 4 a.m., Sat. until 5 a.m. $5 cover Fri.–Sat. 773-348-4975) hasn’t shown any signs of tiring as one of the city’s reigning danceterias. Though it’s a small room, really, Berlin maximizes its real estate with wall-to-wall stimuli: a mix of music from New Wave to techno, nonstop videos, go-go boys, and mirrors to check how the light is flattering you. The neighborhood’s lesbian hangout is The Closet (3325 N. Broadway, Belmont el stop. Open until 4 a.m., 5 a.m. on weekends. 773-477-8533) , your standard-issue neighborhood dive. Pinball and darts provide a few distractions, but the best seats in this basic black box are the bar stools peering onto Broadway.

NEIGHBORHOOD SPOTS

In the Loop, The Berghoff (17 W. Adams St., Jackson el stop. 312-427-3170) is home to Chicago’s number one bar—that is, the first saloon in the city to get a liquor license after the repeal of Prohibition. For its historical flavor, the dark, oak-paneled room remains a lively after-work destination for downtown suits. Trendy spots in River North include Harry’s Velvet Room (56 W. Illinois St., Grand and State el stop. Open until 5 a.m. 312-829-4449), a romantic underground lounge geared for the swellegant martini-swilling set, and Narcisse (710 N. Clark St., Chicago and State el stop. 312-787-2675), a champagne and caviar bar resplendent in yards of draped fabric, gilded walls and opulent chandeliers. Further north, John Barleycorn Memorial Pub (658 W. Belden St., Fullerton el stop. 773-348-8899) in Old Town is a generously proportioned English-style pub that exudes historic charm. The century-old building has functioned as a bar for much of its life, from Twenties speakeasy to favored watering hole of John Dillinger. Sports bars reign in Wrigleyville, including Cubby Bear (1059 W. Addison St., Addison el stop. $5–10 cover. 773-327-1662), which fills up with fans before and after Cubs games and offers pool, darts and rock bands. If you want to duck the army of dudes donning turned-back baseball caps on North Clark Street, the Ginger Man Tavern (3740 N. Clark St., Addison el stop. 773-549-2050) provides a sanctuary behind its big picture windows. A hipper, more laid-back clientele than you’ll find in the rest of the neighborhood clusters around tightly packed tables and chairs up front or shoots pool in the larger back room.

FOR PEOPLE WHO WOULDN’T BE CAUGHT DEAD DRINKING A BUD

Take a peek at the brewing equipment on your way into the two locations of Goose Island Brewery (1800 N. Clybourn Ave., North and Clybourn el stop. 312-915-0071 and also at 3535 N. Clark St., Addison el stop. 773-832-9040), the city’s original microbrewery, which features a fermented repertoire of 40 rotating microbrews including its flagship Honker’s Ale and a delicious home-style root beer. They’re always ready for a special occasion at Pops for Champagne (2934 N. Sheffield Ave., Belmont el stop. Most nights $5-10 cover. 773-472-1000). The sophisticated Lake View boîte features pages and pages of champagnes and stocks more than 125 kinds of sparkling wines. Another of the classiest wine bars in town is Cru Cafe and Wine Bar (888 N. Wabash Ave., Chicago and State el stop. 312-337-4078), a Gold Coast spot with vintage chandeliers, a fireplace and an inviting sidewalk cafe. The cafe carries more than 400 wines and 50 by the glass, and draws plenty of sophisticates.

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