Reviews in the News: Seaver Serves Mediterranean
by Judi Baxter, PW Daily for Booksellers -- Publishers Weekly, 3/9/2005
Here's a question for all foodies: Where did eggs Benedict originate? If you answered "at the Waldorf," you are right!
This is just one bit of information found in Arthur Swartz's latest book, Arthur Schwartz's New York City Food (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, $45), which epicurious.com's Irene Sax describes as a "lively, profusely illustrated, learned-without-being-boring book."
The third-generation New Yorker who has covered the city's culinary scene for many years begins his culinary history with--who else?--the Dutch and the English. The story turns tasty with the coming of the German, Irish, Jewish, Chinese and Italian immigrants and follows their impact on the city's food markets and restaurants. The story continues with the newer immigrants from Asia, Russia and the Caribbean.
The narrative is also peppered with portraits of legendary culinary figures such as Grace Chu, Patricia Murphy and Sherman Billingsely and interesting asides such as "green peppercorns were the sun-dried tomatoes of the 1970s."
The book is not just a celebration of Gotham's sumptuous cuisine. It also features 160 recipes of food that either originated in the city or were perfected there, including Lobster Newberg (created at Delmonico's in the mid 1870s), Manhattan Clam Chowder and Lindy's cheesecake.
"Even if you're not a New Yorker--even if you don't particularly love the city--you'll find plenty to interest you here," concludes Sax.
Olive oil, fruits, vegetables, legumes, grains, nuts, fish and wine are the main ingredients in the Mediterranean diet, one of the world's most healthful and life-lengthening cuisines.
Jeannette Seaver spins delectable magic using these ingredients in her book, My New Mediterranean Cookbook (Arcade, $28), which includes nearly 200 recipes from southern France, Spain, Italy, Greece, Turkey, Tunisia, Morocco and the Middle East. Family and friends will be wowed by such dishes as Dandelion Salad with New Potatoes, Beggars' Purses Stuffed with Chicken, Almond Tart with Strawberries and Broiled Fresh Figs with Honey.
In BookPage, Sybil Pratt writes, "From the first recipe for Anchoiade, a classic anchovy dip made especially smooth by Jeannette's addition of cream cheese, to unusual, robust Fillets of Salmon à la Bourguignonne, to simple Broiled Fresh Figs with Honey and sumptuous layered meringue-almond Dacquoise, you'll meander through Mediterranean marvels with the ideal gourmet guide, a true home cook who's at your side in the kitchen with solid instructions, tips and a true love for serving the very best."
