In New Orleans, Tradition Goes On
PWTalks with Melvin Rodrigue
by Melinda Corey -- Publishers Weekly, 10/17/2005
Galatoire's Cookbook (reviewed in PW, Oct. 10) celebrates the 100th anniversary of the New Orleans landmark restaurant and the melange of culinary influences in French Creole cooking. PW spoke with Rodrigue, the book's co-author and the restaurant's general manager.
What are you doing now, with Galatoire's closed [the restaurant was untouched during Hurricane Katrina]?
We have leased a small office in Baton Rouge, and are dealing with insurance claims and making sure that the staff is accounted for.
Some newspapers report that while New Orleans recovers, Galatoire's will move to Baton Rouge. Will it?
We are looking around for a location that fits. It would be nice to have a second location— a second location, not a replacement. We have no plans for the Galatoire's in New Orleans to go away. It is our tradition and heritage.
How did you write Galatoire's Cookbook?
We [Rodrigue wrote the book with Galatoire's publicist Jyl Benson] wanted to stay true to [the recipes], but we had to adapt them for home cooks. We adapted them from being able to be made on a 28,000 BTU stove to a home stove.
What, to you, is the essence of French Creole cooking?
Our entire cuisine is about simplicity. It's about putting a few ingredients together, but not just for the sake of ease of preparation at home. It's what represents the restaurant.
There are two chapters on appetizers and one on hors d'oeuvres. Why so many pre-dinner recipes?
It goes back to the idea of a party. Part of our culture [in New Orleans] is built upon the idea of gathering, of people wanting to get together to have fun. Appetizers lend themselves to that. Then there are hors d'oeuvres. The idea for them goes back to an old way of relaxing. We also have so many of these recipes because there are so many types of shellfish available in the New Orleans area and we want to use them.
After Katrina, what do you consider the fate of New Orleans cooking?
We have no fear for a future without New Orleans cooking. New Orleans is a great food city. It has created its own style. This [Katrina] isn't something that can stop that. Our group of New Orleans restaurateurs certainly feels that way. Right now they're chomping at the bit to reopen. But it's a daunting task. If we had potable water, some restaurants would be back in business already.
