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    I went to law school for bad reasons. I’d finished my M.F.A. and run through my Stegner Fellowship without landing a book contract or a teaching job, and I needed cover: more time to write, and the possibility of making a living at the end of it.

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    My first cookbook, Volt Ink (Olive Press, 2011), documented life in a kitchen in a New American restaurant. I wrote it with my brother, Michael, when we were running our restaurants, Volt and Ink, and battling spatula-à-spatula on Top Chef.

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    For the last two decades I have sworn off the publishing process.

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    Polar bears are obligate carnivores. If they don’t eat animal protein, they sicken and die. In the same way, I feel like an obligate writer.

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