Portal: San Francisco’s Ferry Building and the Reinvention of American Cities

Urban design critic King (Cityscapes 2) traces in this vibrant account the rise, decline, and rebirth of San Francisco’s Ferry Building, using its 125-year history as a case study of the shifting approach to waterfront design in American cities. Built in 1898 at the point where San Francisco met the harbor, the building and its soaring clock tower could be seen for miles. With depots for both ferries and trains, it was also “the principal point of entry” into the city. The Ferry Building survived the 1906 earthquake and post-WWII demolition threats from urban planners bent on replacing it with corporate high-rises. By the 1950s, it faced decline due to loss of ridership to automobiles, bridges that supplanted its iconic status, and the double-decker freeways that severed it from the waterfront. When the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake destroyed the Embarcadero Freeway, residents leapt at the chance to remove the highway and restore their waterfront access. The Ferry Building and surrounding plaza were rebranded as a “lifestyle zone,” with a farmer’s market and artisanal food shops. King’s lively narrative brings to life pivotal local figures, including mayor Dianne Feinstein, who advocated tearing down the Embarcadero Freeway, and influential columnist Herb Caen, whose six decades’ worth of columns embodied a growing American pessimism over city planning. The result is an illuminating architectural and social history. (Nov.)