cover image The North African Cook Book

The North African Cook Book

Jeff Koehler. Phaidon, $54.95 (468p) ISBN 978-1-83866-626-2

James Beard Award winner Koehler (La Paella) dives deep into the food and culture of North Africa in this first-class guided tour through the local fare of Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, and Libya. An informative introduction offers brief histories of each country alongside primers on the vital role couscous plays in the region’s diet and the relationship between Islam and food. The subsequent 445 recipes are an embarrassment of riches, organized into 14 chapters including “Bread and Savory Pastries,” “Poultry, Rabbit, and Snails,” and “Confections, Desserts, and Fruits.” Crumbly semolina flatbread with olives, cheese, and dried herbs; pasta with chicken, potato, and chickpeas; and grilled whole sea bass are a few highlights. Couscous dishes abound, including seven-vegetable couscous (which Koehler asserts could take the crown as Morocco’s “national dish”), couscous with grouper (a “defining” dish of coastal Tunisia), and sweet couscous with cinnamon-scented milk. Koehler also wisely includes helpful sidebars on many important aspects of North African cuisine, such as tips for cooking with a tagine and briefs on capers, sardines, and mint tea. Home cooks will walk away with both a tasty array of dishes to add to their rotation and a deep appreciation for the culinary culture of this rich and diverse region. (May)