Red, White, and Greens: The Italian Way with Vegetables

Faith Willinger, Author
Faith Willinger, Author Morrow Cookbooks $25 (352p) ISBN 978-0-06-018366-0
Reviewed on: 09/02/1996
Release date: 09/01/1996
Paperback - 978-0-06-095044-6
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Accomplishing what few, if any, have done before, Willinger (Eating In Italy) has made everyday, often spontaneous Italian vegetable recipes (rarely written down in Italy) accessible to American cooks. She arranges the recipes by vegetable (or vegetables, e.g., broccoli, cauliflower and broccoli rabe are grouped together) and opens each chapter with an entertaining, informative look at the use of the subject over time and its preparation today; a list of recipes in the chapter is a surprisingly helpful addition. Making the most of seasonal bounties, recipes are simple and often unexpected. Carmignano Fennel Seed-Spiced Dried Figs are stuffed with walnuts and fennel seeds and layered with bay leaves for flavor. Torquato's Rice and Cabbage Soup uses the same rice as risotto but does not require constant stirring. Pantelleria Potato Salad is dotted with capers and olives, and Chicken with Peppers, Piedmont-style substitutes chicken for rabbit in a traditional stew. In Italy, pasta often serves as a last-minute meal or first course, and most chapters include a few quickly prepared pasta recipes: Giuliano's Garlicky Artichoke Spaghetti, Signora Ada's Penne with Squash Sauce and Pasta with Mushroom and Chicken Liver Sauce. An ""Italian Pantry"" section covering pasta, rice and other essentials rounds out this authentic and practical effort. (Sept.)
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