Atlas of Perfumed Botany

Plant aromas take center stage in this sophisticated tour from perfumer Ellena (The Diary of a Nose). As he writes, “from the convergence of products of both natural and chemical origin, the art of perfume is born.” Ellena breaks down scents into seven groupings: “Woods and Barks” covers the “lead pencil” aroma of red cedar and the spice of cinnamons; “Leaves” reveals that tarragon may be the secret ingredient in Dior’s Eau Sauvage scent; and “Flowers” spotlights narcissus’s ability to evoke the countryside. Ellena’s enduring love of bergamot is highlighted in “Fruits,” myrrh and frankincense are touched on as mythologically loaded in “Gums and Resins,” “Seeds” describes nutmeg and mace as “neither cold nor hot, not exactly short but also not too long,” and “Roots” evokes the “cold scent” of iris and vetiver’s “matchstick and sulfur.” Readers will learn that jasmine is a key part of weddings in India, and that bergamot was first used in perfume in 1709. Ellena writes in a vivid prose, and has a knack for translating smells into the written word: of Sandalwood, he writes, “Its scent strikes me as flat, lascivious, lazy, and lacking depth.” This enchanting volume merits a spot on any perfume connoisseur’s shelf. (Apr.)