cover image The Mile End Cookbook: Redefining Jewish Comfort Food, from Hash to Hamantaschen

The Mile End Cookbook: Redefining Jewish Comfort Food, from Hash to Hamantaschen

Noah and Rae Bernamoff. Clarkson Potter, $27.50 (224p) ISBN 978-0-307-95448-0

This debut cookbook melds old school kosher food with a modern finesse, bringing the idea of “kosher delicatessen” into the 21st century. Hoping to prove that the Jewish deli is not a thing of the past, the Bernamoffs (who lived in Montreal but now reside in Brooklyn where they opened their deli) rely on classic recipes “from grandma” infused with new technique and palate to offer their restaurant meals in the convenience of the reader’s home. Broken into two sections, “Do-It-Yourself Delicatessen” and “To the Table,” the book enables readers to build the perfect delicatessen meal from the ground up. Providing recipes for a complete meal, at any time of the day, the Bernamoffs incorporate smoked meats and fish, pickles, garnishes, and condiments, bread and noodle-making, as well as dessert (e.g., honey cake and rugelach) into a small book filled with anecdotes and tips. With extra sections written by other food purveyors and vendors, e.g., “How to Love Your Knife So It’ll Love You Back” by Joel Bukiewicz (a Brooklynite knife-smith) or “An Ode to Pastrami” by Ken Gordon (owner of Kenny and Zuke’s Delicatessen in Portland, Ore.) give this book the quirky, hipster personality of its restaurant namesake. Perhaps slightly impractical for the average home cook (smoking meat is time consuming), this book will definitely serve those willing to put in the time and effort required for the perfect roast beef sandwich. (Sept.)