ITALIAN SLOW AND SAVORY: A Cookbook

Joyce Eserky Goldstein, Author, Chronicle Books, Author, Paolo Nobile, Photographer
Joyce Eserky Goldstein, Author, Chronicle Books, Author, Paolo Nobile, Photographer . Chronicle $40 (288p) ISBN 978-0-8118-4238-9
Reviewed on: 09/27/2004
Release date: 10/01/2004
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Just when it seems there could be nothing new to say about the cuisine of Italy or the slow food movement that was born there, Goldstein dazzles with this selection of soups, stews, roasts, sauces and casseroles. Her lushly produced and impeccably researched volume explores traditional home-cooked dishes from regions not well known to American readers, such as Liguria, Abruzzi, the Marches, Apulia, Sardinia and Trentino, as well as the more familiar Tuscany, Piedmont and Sicily. In addition to staples such as lasagna and osso buco, Goldstein resurrects treasures such as Le Virtù, a farro and bean soup from the Abruzzo; Spicy Fish and Shellfish Stew from Livorno; Lamb, Fennel, and Bread Casserole from Sardinia; Beef Stew with Sweet and Hot Paprika from Trieste; and Apulian Fava Purée with Wild Greens. Goldstein (Solo Suppers ; Enoteca ; etc.) introduces each recipe with an engaging note on the history of the dish, and her thorough instructions make it clear she's accustomed to teaching as well as working in the kitchen. This beautiful volume will more than hold its own alongside recent additions to the fast-growing slow food shelf. Like Goldstein's slow-braised Calabrian Rolled Pork Shoulder, this tribute to Italy's diverse cuisine and artisanal ingredients will stand the test of time and reward home cooks with every repeat visit. Photos. (Nov.)

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