Miss Ruby's American Cooking: From Border to Border and Coast to Coast: The Best Recipes from America's Regional Kitchens

Championing the ``highly successful border raids'' that have long enriched the eclecticism of traditional American cookery, Texas-born Bronz--owner of Miss Ruby's Cafe in New York City--here reveals her secrets for culinary happiness. While lamenting that many Americans limit native food to hot dogs, hamburgers and barbecue, she seeks a remedy in regionalism, supplying more than 200 recipes from 18 states and geographical areas. The food is as basic as mashed potatoes and as special as conch salad, bolichi (Puerto Rican pot roast), ``she-crab soup,'' avocado ice cream, and catfish pate with crawfish tails. Along with recipes, Bronz offers homespun but sharp-witted commentaries. On Shaker-style sauteed apples with honey and cream: ``This dessert is dead simple and simply good, and typical of deceptive Shaker simplicity.'' On Shaker-style Ohio lemon pie: ``The sharpness of lemon curd pales in comparison with this intense lemon dessert. The Shakers were celibate, but unabating in their intensity.'' Her home cooking, however fine, shows little concern for cholesterol. BOMC Home Style and Better Homes & Gardens Book Club alternates . (Oct.)