Cucina Simpatica: Robust Trattoria Cooking from Al Forno

Johanne Killeen, Author, George Germon, With William Morrow Cookbooks $32.5 (224p) ISBN 978-0-06-016119-4
Italy's version of the French bistro is the trattoria, where fresh ingredients, simply prepared, yield hearty, satisfying stuff. Killeen and Germon, owners/chefs of Lucky's and Al Forno, nationally recognized restaurants in Providence, R.I., here approach trattoria cuisine with respect and imagination, coming up with such delights as their grilled pizza (with red pepper puree and spicy pepper oil in one variation) and an array of baked pasta dishes--e.g., penne with roasted asparagus in a lemon cream sauce. True to their dictum, ``The simpler the ingredients, the better the dish,'' they reveal the uncomplicated secrets of clams al forno and assorted robust salads. The chapter ``Bruschetta, Crostini and Polenta'' features versions of grilled breads brushed with garlic and olive oil, and a cornmeal polenta cooked in cream. Meats are grilled, roasted and/or braised; similarly, vegetables are roasted or grilled. Desserts are mainly crostatas (flaky, free-form fruit tarts) and ice creams. 30,000 first printing; $40,000 ad/promo; author tour. (May)
Reviewed on: 05/06/1991
Release date: 01/01/1900
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