Raji Cuisine: Indian Flavors, French Passion

HA native of Hyderabad, India, and chef/owner of Restaurant Raji in Memphis, Jallepalli fuses Indian flavors and French technique with well-seasoned verve. A succinct introduction covers essential pantry ingredients, spices, oils and fats, and techniques. Jallepalli assures dubious gastronomes that Indian-French fusion is not a hapless combination of foie gras and curry, emphasizing instead a spice-accented symmetry of complementary flavors. Sundry spices--cilantro, tamarind, turmeric, ginger, cumin, cardamom, among others--lend an exotic sensibility to such French classics as Tamarind Consomm or Baby Lamb Racks with Curry Leaf-Black Pepper Crust and Curried Blackberry Sauce, both less complicated to make than they sound. There are easy-to-make dishes (Fettuccine with White Truffles and Curry Leaves) as well as creative hybrids (Antelope Chop with Blackberry-Ginger Chutney and Anise-Flavored Chocolate Meringues). Recipe instruction is clear and straightforward, often incorporating traditional Indian cooking techniques, such as toasting spices, blending sauces and marinating meats. Oenophiles will appreciate Jallepalli's wine recommendations for most dishes. A thinking-cook's chef, Jallepalli in his first effort delivers an admirable range of innovative and vibrantly full-flavored dishes, accessible to inspired home cooks. (Mar.)