From Nature to Plate: Seasonal Recipes from The Kitchin

Scottish chef Kitchin, helmsman of an eponymous Michelin-starred restaurant, offers a culinary tour of his restaurant in this dense memoir-cookbook. Following a long-winded account of his (less-than-remarkable) journey to chefdom, Kitchin finally gets to cooking, setting the tone with Spring dishes like Asparagus Hollandaise, a simple Lemon Sole Meuniere, and a Leek and Potato Soup dressed up with a crispy ox tongue and a poached egg. For every classic, there are inventive riffs, including Razor Clams with Chorizo and Lemon and Gnocchi with Blue Cheese, two examples that are well within the capabilities of eager cooks; however, they may hit a wall trying to source rabbit kidneys for Rabbit With Macaroni and Mustard Sauce, or the principal ingredients in Lamb's Tongues with Sweetbread Ravioli. Kitchin also includes labor-intensive showpieces such as his signature dish, the epic Boned and Rolled Pig's Head with Langostines and a Crispy Ear Salad, likely to send even the most inspired cooks phoning for a reservation instead. Anglophiles who've visited Kitchin's restaurant will find this a warm souvenir, and gastronomes on this side of the pond will appreciate Kitchin's riffs and combinations, though the hefty price and UK measurements may give them pause. (May)