Pig Beach BBQ Cookbook: Smoked, Grilled, Roasted, and Sauced

Abdoo and McBride meld their “haute cuisine” chops with the techniques of a “centuries-old craft” in this scattered collection inspired by their popular Brooklyn barbecue joint. Star menu items, such as glazed ribs and pastrami brined for two weeks, are patiently explained, and a chapter salutes New York’s diverse flavors, including Lebanese-style ribs drizzled with a yogurt-based white sauce inspired by what’s served at the local “meat-and-rice food carts found all over [the city].” But when Abdoo and McBride go beyond the grill, results are mixed. A “very involved... free-form lasagna” with smoked duck confit is puzzlingly assembled on a sheet pan and cut into individual portions that are then pan-seared and finally baked—a restaurant method that makes little sense at home. Shredding brisket to fill ravioli and scattering pastrami cubes on ramen offer delicious ways to elevate the usual, but more delicate dishes—including cod in smoked tomato water—seem out of place alongside 16-ounce pork chops and mammoth tomahawk steaks. While the many barbecue-related tips (omit wrapping the shoulder for pulled pork if you like crispy “bark”) are handy, some, including a note that yuzu juice is “available at some specialty stores and online,” read like fillers. This cookbook’s lack of focus dilutes the potency of its best recipes. (May)