A Birdwatcher's Cookbook

Admitting greater enthusiasm for birdwatching than cooking, ornithologist Fisk offers a charming volume that is much more than the sum of its recipes. Veteran birdwatchers and weekend picnickers will enjoy dishes that lend themselves to being wedged into a portable cooler, notably spinach squares and beet soup (borscht). There are also many warm, end-of-the-day meals, among them ""cold night's'' lamb stew, Northwest fish chowder and cheese woodchuck (with onion, milk, corn and eggs). Brazil-nut chips, Father Fisk's rum punch and Atchie Alexander's fruit-nut torte are offered as snacks. However, it is Fisk's writing style and pervasive personality that make this volume unusual. In most cookbooks, the entry ``goose'' contains directions; here, this cook explains why she can't quite bring herself to prepare one. Evelyn's scrapple starts with a 48-gallon kettle, three pigs and one steer. Fisk encourages readers to experiment and be creative (``I can only spoon-feed you so far'') and nonchalantly notes: ``Some dishes I don't particularly like but others do, so maybe you will.'' Many cookbooks have fancier recipes; few are better company. Fisk is the author of The Peacocks of Baboqui'vari. Illustrations not seen by PW. (December)