cover image House of Vinegar: The Power of Sour

House of Vinegar: The Power of Sour

Jonathon Sawyer. Ten Speed, $30 (256p) ISBN 978-0-399-57916-5

Sawyer, chef of Cleveland’s Greenhouse Tavern, assembles 80 recipes in this enlightening cookbook as he instills two important lessons: anything that ferments can be the base for a vinegar, and vinegars can complement nearly any dish, from appetizer to nightcap. The opening chapter offers instructions for creating 11 different types of vinegars, some of which are easy (malt vinegar, after all, is beer in a jar, plus time); for the brave, there is a prosciutto-scotch vinegar, with the liquor diluted to achieve fermentation and given three months to properly age. The second chapter focuses on pickling techniques, with sauerkraut at one end of the tangy spectrum and Bavarian black grape pickles at the other. Vinegar-based sauces, both cold and hot, are explored, as is the art of brining. Beer-can chicken is elevated by having the bird soak for a day in a beer and vinegar brine with garlic and brown sugar. Other standout entrees include foie-gras steamed clams, and ratatouille Niçoise made with shishito peppers and a red wine vinegar. A fascinating chapter on cocktails includes an orange-vinegar Sazerac, as well as a bourbon ginger baby with the unlikely trio of bourbon, white wine vinegar, and cucumber. A condiment that dates back to ancient Babylon proves to be as vital as ever in this refreshing collection. [em](Oct.) [/em]