Avec Eric

Ripert, chef of the famed New York restaurant Le Bernardin and author of On the Line, takes readers on a culinary journey from Italy to California in this companion piece to his PBS series of the same name. Ripert aims to share how his cultural adventures spark the creative process. While he falls short of his overall goal, his recipes and the amazing photos that outnumber the dishes more than make up for this lapse. The roasted pork loin with wild mushrooms, garlic, and sage pan jus from Tuscany will tempt even the most faithful of vegans, while heirloom tomato salad with black garlic and white balsamic, and white asparagus with anchovy-herb butter, both from Los Gatos in California, proclaim the supremacy of vegetables. Marshall, California, showcases fruits from the sea, a subject Ripert knows more than a little about; oyster sangrita and whole roasted red snapper with Thai spices and coconut rice accent the freshness of the ingredients, and Ripert includes sidebars on oyster shucking and tasting, which complete the oyster encounter. Journeys to Italy's Livorno, Mugello, and Fonterutoli as well as the Sonoma region of California and the Cayman Islands round out Ripert's expedition. While the randomness of his destinations make the book seem like an afterthought, the array of appetizing dishes that Ripert offers is worth the price. (Nov.)