Official Fulton Fish Market

Bruce Beck, Author Dutton Books $19.95 (0p) ISBN 978-0-525-24773-9
This history and guide to the workings and wares of ``the largest wholesale fish market in the Western hemisphere'' evokes the vitality of a marketplace with roots as old as New York City itself (``the pace is brisk, the atmosphere is macho''). The market serves as a microcosm of the culinary and cultural diversity of New York, as Beck's ( Produce: A Fruit and Vegetable Lovers' Guide ) collection of over 150 recipes, gathered from local homes and restaurants, celebrates an abundance of seafood. Descriptions of the fish sold at market (arranged alphabetically, by scientific rather than common name) include information on place of origin and seasonal availability, comparable quality of varieties and substitutions that will aid the fish purchaser. Equally useful are instructions on filleting and cleaning fish and advice on seafood safety (properly cooking or freezing fish will kill all potentially dangerous parasites). Recipes are organized by cooking technique--broiling, baking, frying--and feature ethnically inspired specialties, classic and New American dishes, haute and nouvelle French cuisines and basic recipes (baked whole fish). Illustrations not seen by PW. (June)
Reviewed on: 07/06/1989
Release date: 07/01/1989
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