Delia Smith's Complete Illustrated Cookery Course

A friendly, encouraging tone and kitchen expressions from across the pond mark this comprehensive revision of British authority Smith's Complete Cookery Course , first seen 20 years ago. Predictable variations on American norms, such as measuring ingredients by weight rather than volume, and a full chapter devoted to ``offal'' seem to go hand in hand with vocabulary differences (a ``liquidiser'' is a blender; ``pulses'' are beans, peas and lentils) and unexpected organizational approaches, as in the chapter ``Pasta and Pancakes.'' A generally looser sense of categorization is represented in the chapter ``Cheese,'' which includes a reference page describing traditional English Derbyshire, Stilton and Cheshire; recipes for Greek salad; pizza; ``fillets'' of sole gratinee; and gnocchi, along with souffles and cheese tarts. American cooks may miss balsamic vinegar, tropical fruits and exotic vegetables and question the emphasis on heavy cream, butter and lard. But Smith's streamlined lists of ingredients and her chatty instructions lend an appealing air to basic, unexceptional recipes. Photos. (Dec.)