cover image One: Pot, Pan, Planet: A Greener Way to Cook for You and Your Family

One: Pot, Pan, Planet: A Greener Way to Cook for You and Your Family

Anna Jones. Knopf, $35 (336p) ISBN 978-0-593-32032-7

British cook Jones (The Modern Cook’s Year) offers vegetarian recipes and tips for stewardship of the environment in this cluttered and perhaps too lofty collection. The “one” here is misleading: while three chapters are organized by cooking vessel—“one pan,” “one pot,” and “one tray”—many recipes require both pots and pans, and numerous bowls. A group of nominally “quick” dishes includes shepherd’s pie, which is baked for 30–40 minutes after its spiced filling has simmered for 25 minutes and its potatoes have been boiled separately for 20. Haphazard organization leads to overlap: a shakshuka with fava beans, and a “Greek-inspired take” on another shakshuka inhabit different categories. Jones often supplies so many options that authority drains away: Korean-style vegetable pancakes can be made any size, and the garlic in the batter can be crushed or finely chopped, while a recipe for brownies with almond butter offers two sets of instructions. And the jumble of familiar information on how to avoid waste, such as keeping condiments refrigerated and checking best-by dates, feels like an afterthought. The approach is well-meaning, and there are gems—including a red lentil casserole shingled with sweet potato slices—but formidable effort is required to unearth them. While the title promises simplicity, this mostly yields a complex muddle. (Jan.)